LyllosMig

Growing in sewing


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2015: A Year in Unblogged Review

I hope you all hade a lovely holiday season and a good first week of 2016!

I’m not much for reflecting back upon the past year and categorizing memories into time periods but I thought I’d make an exception today. The thing is that after the summer, my work got really intense and I did not have the energy to blog or even sew that much. It was a shame because I had sewn and photographed quite a few pieces during the spring and summer that never made it onto the blog. So I’m using this new year to finally blog a bit about these pieces and reflecting a bit about them so I have a fresh start for blogging in 2016.
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Skirt Pattern: Clémence Skirt from Love at First Stitch
Fabric: Ecological African cotton
Top Pattern: Nettie by Closet Case Patterns
Fabric: Super soft black jersey

In March, me and P went to Stockholm to see Paul Simon in Concert (I’m a huge fan). I planned outfits for the whole weekend for months in advance. Unfortunately I didn’t get so many great photos but at least I got this picture for my concert outfit. I bought the african fabric the summer before on a street market and thought it was perfect for the concert. I added bias bound patch pockets to the Clémence skirt inspired by this picture on Pinterest. This Nettie is my favorite so far and since it’s black it goes with a lot of things. I also made a black hoodie and a fan T-shirt with Paul’s face on it for the trip.IMG_9784Pattern: Simplicity 7498
Fabric: Floral printed poly spandex from Spandex World

I wanted to make lots of bathing suits for the summer so I placed a large order from Spandex World. This fabric feels retro to me so I made a tankini two-piece from this vintage pattern. The size of the pattern I got was about 6 sizes too big for me so I practically redrew the whole pattern. This suit unfortunately never made it out of the house this summer.

Pattern: Grainline Maritime Shorts
Fabric: Navy/White Cotton Twill from Ohlssons Tyger

These shorts were a recreation of a pair of shorts I really wanted but never got in the 90’s. I like them a lot but I kind of messed up the waistband by the fly. I’ll definitely make this pattern again and when I do I will add belt loops since pants/shorts tend to stretch out a bit after some wear.IMG_0066Pattern: Soma bikini for Papercut Patterns
Fabric: Black/White striped nylon spandex from Spandex World

I made another version of the Soma bikini before, shown here. This version was definitely inspired by Lladybirds version although I arranged my stripes a bit different. I made the high waisted bikini bottoms which I hacked a bit by adding diagonal side panels to continue the shape of the triangle in the top. Unfortunately this messed up the lining a bit so they don’t look that great when worn. IMG_0038This is the best picture I got of me wearing the Maritime Shorts and Soma Bikini.IMG_5229IMG_5230
Pattern: Watson Bikini bra by Cloth Habit (with sewn in padding) and Soma high waisted bikini bottoms (ruched)
Fabric: Unicorns and Rainbows from Spandex World (sorry, can’t find a link)

I fell in love with this fabric as soon as I saw it which is weird because it is usually not my style at all (or is it?). I made it into a Watson bikini bra and sandwiched in padding between the cup pieces (using the technique used in the Soma bikini top).

IMG_0839IMG_0871Top Pattern: Beatrix by Made by Rae,
Fabric: White rayon with black printed birds from Ohlssons Tyger (on sale)
Jeans Patterm: Ginger Jeans (view B) by Closet Case Patterns
Fabric: Organic black denim with 5% Lycra from Organic Textile Company

I loved the Beatrix pattern when it came out, and made it within a week of buying the pattern. I love this shirt, it’s casual but still dressy and really comfortable to wear. I also loved the Ginger Jeans pattern when it came out around the time I was all about making pants. I finally got to making them after finding this great black denim fabric from Organic Textile Company (sidenote: their site is so funny). This fabric is woven with white threads and in certain light looks more like a dark blue denim but I love it anyways. Unfortunately I kind of lost my cool when sewing these and kept taking them in along the inseam and side seams that they ended up being a bit too tight and there’s a bit of twisted leg syndrome. Luckily I think I have enough left over to make another pair.
Some close ups:
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Pattern: Washi Dress by Made by Rae with Peter Pan Collar (included in the expansion pack)
Fabric: Flight Voile by Birch Organic Fabrics

I fell in love with this fabric when I saw this pin a couple of years ago, later that year I was placing a big order from Fabric.com and came across it again so I had to order it. I think I ordered 3 yards but ended up getting a few extra yards since it was at the end of the bolt (score!). It ended up in my stash a while after that since I wanted to make something special with it. The Washi Dress pattern had been on the back burner a while too and this summer they came together at last. I have my next washi planned out (with the bow) from this summer so hopefully I’ll get to making it for summer 2016.Processed with MoldivPattern: Watson Bikini bra and Nettie hack (Wattie or Netson?)
Fabric: Milliskin Navy Blue and Milliskin White from Spandex World

This was my favourite make from the past summer, from the planning, designing, sewing to finally wearing. I wanted to make a retro styled one-piece in classic navy and white. After searching for the perfect pattern I came up with the idea to combine the Watson and the Nettie. Since I hade made both a few times before I had the fit down on both so that was no issue. First I made the Watson cups with sewn in lining (again, per the instructions of the Soma bikini top). I cut the back band on the fold and then attached the front and back band (plus lining) to the cups. I redrafted the nettie to remove the snap crotch and then measured to get the right length. I basically made really high waisted bottoms. I then combined the top to the bottoms with the white waist stripe. The lining from the bottoms attach to the band of the bra as you can see below. The thing that really stepped up the game for this suit was that I added the bindings of the bra with this super gadget I got from my mom. It’s a binding attachment for my Cover Pro, you basically just feed fabric into the right side and it folds and sews a perfect binding. It’s amazing and I am so blessed to have such a nice mother! IMG_9883
Here are some close-ups of the suit, I forgot to take pictures of it when dry so here it is wet after one of few swimming occasions this summer. IMG_5217IMG_5214IMG_5215IMG_4686IMG_4687IMG_4759Pattern: Bettine by Tilly and the Buttons
Fabric: Blue mystery fabric

I’ll start out by admitting that this dress only got worn once and I will concider it a fail. This is mostly due to the fact that the shape isn’t flattering to my body type and the sleeve tabs and cuffs turned out wonky for some reason. I made another go with the pattern as a shirt in a jersey fabric (below), but I haven’t worn that a lot either. I might give this pattern another go or two before I come to terms with the fact that it’s not meant to be.IMG_5245
I also finished a quilt this year. I never got around to taking pictures of it finished but this is what the blocks look like.IMG_5509I have made more things that I never got around to taking any pictures of and that are in constant rotation so now I don’t even remember that they are new. I’m not making any promises for this upcoming year except that I promise to continue to grow in my sewing and to love the creative process.
What have been your favorite makes of 2015? What are you hoping to learn and make in 2016?

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Culottes or How I Got Over my Fear of Skorts

 When this culottes trend started filling up my Pinterest feed I just shook my head in misunderstanding and chalked it up as another crazy fad. To me, the thought of culottes brought me back to the skorts of the 90’s. Well, somewhere down the line I instead started thinking, “I like pants, I don’t like wearing skirts, I like the look of skirts, wouldn’t it be awesome if I could wear pants that look like a skirt?”   When I later bought the June issue of Burda Style Magazine and the featured pattern was a pair of culottes, I decided to give it a go. It really helped that this was the featured model because the pattern was easy to find and trace off from the spider web that is Burda Style patterns. Another great thing is that there are special instructions with pictures so you can even understand how to put the pieces together. I even followed their instructions for sewing the fly front, and I liked the way they instructed. The fabric I used is a lovely soft organic twill that I also used for these pants. It might be a bit too thick for this pattern, especially for the pleats in the front but I like the structure it brings.  The pants are rather high-waisted so I thought they would look good with a cropped tee. Luckily, I had just scored the last of the softest organic cotton jersey you could imagine from Ohlssons Tyger. Unfortunately there was only about half a meter left otherwise I would have bought loads more. Luckily though, this was all I needed for this crop top. I used the always awesome Plantain pattern (I still cannot believe it’s free!) for this, I just made it shorter than usual. 

Overall, this turned out to be a comfy yet dressy kind of outfit. Perfect for a round of mini-golf 🙂     culottes, crop top Have you caught the culottes bug or are you as sceptical as I was at first?


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Try Try Again

IMG_0228.JPG After my fail with making the last pair of pants I decided to buy a good pattern and actually do some research before tackling the task again. So I bought this pattern and this super soft dark blue twill fabric. Then, for like the second time in my life I made a muslin/toile to get the fit right. It helped a lot. To understand how the heck you install a fly zip, I searched the interwebs and found this great tutorial that really explains every step. I couldn’t believe how easy it was when I knew what I was doing, and so rewarding!

IMG_0235.JPGThe pockets are sewn to the fly which makes it look weird when I pull the pockets out…

IMG_0210.JPGSo after I had mastered (err, made ONE) zip fly I came to realize that there were some other hurdles when sewing pants. Like the waistband! I didn’t waste much time and looked up a good tutorial right away. I ended up using this method from Collette Patterns. I love how you get an extra surprise with the tape on the inside.

IMG_0204.JPGWhen I was almost done I realized the inseams weren’t as strong as they need to be so I sewed on bias tape all along the seams. This ended up being another fun detail as you can see the tape when the hems are rolled up (I always roll my pants up).

IMG_0231-1.JPGI decided not to make any back pockets since there wasn’t that much space back there.
These are now my favorite pair of pants and I still cannot really believe that I made them myself.
I apparently can’t make pants without making a matching shirt so I quickly made this t-shirt. I actually chopped up this dress that I seldom wear, there was just enough fabric.


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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Say “Hi!” to my kitchen wall. You will probably see it a lot until the weather warms up again. I hope you don’t mind! This outfit is kind of old by now but I haven’t gotten around to taking pictures. Again, I blame the cold.

So anyways, a couple of weeks (months maybe) I got this strong desire to make some pants. I have no idea why. I’ve made some pants before but they were mostly sweat pants or pants without a fly. I wanted to master the fly. So I got out this fabric that I bought on sale from Stoff & Stil and looked through literally all of my patterns, Burda magazines and books to find a good pattern. When I finally found the perfect style in one of the magazines I realised that the pattern sheets were missing (I have to sort these out some day!). So then I looked through my recently bought copy of  the new Great British Sewing Bee Book and found the tailored pants for men. So I talked myself into making those but altering them a bit to fit.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis is me looking as mad as I was when I was trying to figure out how to make the fly. I kind of lost patience with the instructions after the first step with the pockets. Can I blame it on me not being british? I figured out my own way of making the pockets and they turned out pretty good. After that I tried my best to make the fly but I failed so miserably that I just cut the whole thing off and just sewed the front seam together. Then I proceeded with sewing the legs together and tried them on and of course they ended up way too tight. I almost tossed the entire project away but I must have had some kind of lightbulb moment that saved me. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA  I added stripes on the sides of the legs. It is actually the same fabric as the rest of the pants, just turned inside out. So now I could actually put the pants on but since I had axed the fly I needed a way to fix the waistband. I ended up making an elastic waistband with three rows of elastic. Then I did the same kind of thing to the cuffs. So I ended up some kind of sweat meets suit pants. I’ve actually worn them to work a few times although they have a tendency to get a bit too baggy when the waistband drops down a bit.

When I hade finally finished the pants I needed a matching shirt so I whipped up this T-shirt. The pattern is the basic T-shirt pattern from Sew U Home Stretch, I altered the sleeves a bit and did my own neckline. The fabric is this organic jersey.  This was my first top that I finished with my new Janome CoverPro 1000CP.  My mom gave it to me way back in May but I have been kind of scared to use it. Now I love it as much as my serger and am kind of obsessed with cover stitching as much as I can. Too bad I forgot to take pictures of that!

My next post will be about the other pair of pants I’ve made. I’ll leave you with a cliffhanger, will I have managed the zipper fly this time?OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA


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Mathilde Blouse

IMG_0624.JPG I loved the Mathilde Blouse when Tilly made it in The Great British Sewing Bee. Then I found her book kind of randomly and bought it right away. I hoped the Mathilde Blouse was in the book so when I realized it wasn’t I sent away for it along with Coco. Flash forward a few weeks (months?) and I had finally bought some nice fabric and was ready to go.

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Unfortunately it wasn’t all smooth sailing, I messed up one side of the pleats by measuring wrong, I accidentaly cut a whole next to an armpit and so on. But worse of all was that I made it a size or two too big *facepalm*! The most noticable part of this was that the shoulders drooped. So I tried to save it by adding an elastic to try to bring it up a bit. I don’t really know if it helped or not.

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It was a really fun pattern to sew though and I will definitely make it again and this time learn from my mistakes. Maybe I’ll even make a muslin first (the horror!).
Here are some pictures of me wearing it taken from above (because I thought it would look cool)…

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IMG_0155.JPGEnd note: it’s kind of funny that I unknowingly made the same version as on the pattern, red buttons and all 🙂


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Summer Challenge Roundup

IMG_0094.JPGThere are only a few more days in August and I guess that means that the summer is more or left over for this year which also means that it is about time I finish my Summer Wardrobe Challenge. It was pretty much over a month and a half ago when I started my vacation and I took these pictures right before but then I went into vacation mode which meant I couldn’t allow myself to blog, I am very sorry for the delay, mostly for myself since I kind of let myself down, the main purpose  for the challenge was so I would sew and blog more than usual. At least I sewed more and I got some cool summer clothes out of it! Let me go through the last few pieces of my summer wardrobe.

Race You Back Top – I’ve had this jersey fabric for a year or so and couldn’t really figure out what to sew out of it, finally I figured I would try sewing this tank top from a recent Burda Style magazine. It was really easy to sew but I changed it up a bit at the neckline and armholes. I made the back black because this fabric is really loud.

IMG_0623.JPGI can’t  remember which one of these tops I made first, but for this one I just used a simple T-shirt pattern. For the back I used a big XXL T-Shirt I had in my stash. I regret the choice thought because I feel like a clown when I wear it, in other words: I don’t wear it out of my house.

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Right before my vacation started I went to my closest fabric oasis (Stof & Stil) and spent the afternoon looking at just about every bolt of fabric and buying quite a lot for my planned projects. When I sew this fabric I had no idea what I would do with it since it’s such a different quality from what I usually get (I can’t tell you what it’s called) but I new I had to have it. None of the other fabrics spoke to me the same way. It wasn’t long after I came home that I saw the Delphine skirt in Love at First Stitch and I just started sewing. This fabric needed a lining both because it is kind of see-through and because it is kind of rough against the skin. Luckily for me, Tilly had just posted this tutorial on how to add a lining, awesome! As I pretty much always do I didn’t measure enough before choosing my size so the skirt ended up being really big, luckily I realised this before I added the waistband so I just took out a few inches in the side seams, although the front ended up being bigger than the back (as you can see in the back photo). I made an attempt at the invisible zipper (in case you didn’t know, I despise zippers) but gave up pretty quickly when I realised that I didn’t have an invisible zipper foot (now I do though, thanks Mom!). I swear that some day I will sit down and really learn all I need about zippers. Maybe I’ll learn to love them like I have with dress shirts and buttonholes.

I haven’t worn this skirt yet but I think it will look good later in the fall with some tights and boots and a cozy sweater (SUMMER Challenge fail by the way, oh well). IMG_0621.JPGAnd finally my favorite piece from my whole “collection”, my “A-Team Skirt” (it’s kind of an A-line skirt, okay?). When I say favorite I don’t mean to wear unfortunately but it was so much fun to design and sew! I was going to make a whole tutorial and take some cool pictures of me actually wearing it, but that didn’t really work out, instead these wrinkly pictures will be all for now. If anyone is interested in the tutorial, leave me a comment and I’ll put it up.

It is a wrap skirt but instead of long ties I decided to add three buttons on each side so the fit is adjustable. I was planning on ties but didn’t have enough fabric so a new idea that I liked even better came about (I love when that happens!). I found the jean fabric in my grandmothers attic when we were cleaning out after she died. I have no idea how old it it but I would guess it is from the seventies, that’s why I went with a retro styled skirt. I’ve been scared to use it (and ruin it) ever since and am pleased that I finally did it and that I like the result. The buttons are vintage too, I got them from P’s Mom (along with like a thousand more, so nice!).

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I had this idea with this Summer Challenge that I would just post photos of the clothes at first and then take lots of fun vacation pictures with me wearing the clothes, but this too did not work out at the end (a big part of this was that I lived in bikinis for the first couple of weeks). I pretty much only got this picture of me wearing my first Lorraine top (this is my favorite piece to wear, definitely). In this picture I am crossing a railway to get to the docks where the ferry to Bornholm, Denmark was. We had an awesome weekend trip there.

So sorry to you my readers, and to myself for not doing a better job with this challenge. But I think I learned some things and hopefully plan ahead better next time. I’ve already started sewing for my fall wardrobe which will hopefully be fun. So goodbye to you lovely summer and see you next time.


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Lorraine Meets Margot in Pyjamas

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I needed a pair of pyjamas for my summer trips and was inspired by the movie “The Help” (great movie BTW) and the sixties pyjamas in one of the scenes.

My local Stoff och Stil Store has a range of retro fabrics that I have been eyeing for a while and at my latest trip I found two cotton fabrics that I thought would work good together as a pyjamas.

20140718-204032.jpgI made the top out of my Lorraine pattern, taking in the sides a bit and adding a pleat in the back instead of gathering. For the armholes I used self made bias tape.

20140718-204326.jpgFor the bottoms I used Tilly Walnes’ “Margot” pattern from her book “Love at First Stitch“. I shortened them, added an elastic in the waist and drawstrings at the calves. I’m planning to write more about Tillys book after I have tried out more patterns.