LyllosMig

Growing in sewing


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An Alder Dress Amongst the Trees

Alder DressAt the end of May I went on a mini-vacation with P and my parents to a little house by the sea. It was the first taste of summer and a wonderful departure from the hectic life in the city. When we needed a break from the sun we visited a few different second hand stores nearby. In the hot attic of one of them I found this white thick cotton fabric that called to me to become a summer dress. It might have been a tablecloth in a previous life. IMG_1859I washed the fabric and let it dry in the sun. There is something so relaxing about fabric drying in the summer breeze. Alder DressI had bought the Alder Shirtdress printed pattern a while back and already knew I wanted to make one for the summer. Since the fabric had stripes of flowers I wanted to make something with it that didn’t require too much pattern matching. Right around the time I bought the fabric I was on some kind of shirt-making high so it felt like a good match.Alder DressAs usual with indie patterns I was between sizes, I had recently made an Archer Shirt so I went with the same size. The bodice ended up being too tight so I unpicked it and sewed it with a smaller seam allowance. This fabric was not made for unpicking. Every time the needle hit the fabric it punched a rather big hole. So I covered the holes up with topstitching on both sides of the side seams.Alder ShirtAnother problem with the heavy fabric was that it was a bit challenging to gather the skirt. On the plus side the gathers stayed really well in place. Alder dressWhen wearing this outside for the first time during this photoshoot I also realized that the thickness of the fabric doesn’t drape well in the skirt at all. For example when I bend down the skirt stands out pretty much parallel to the ground. For this reason I think this dress will mostly be used to the beach or with leggings underneath.Alder ShirtI also think I could have fitted the bodice better. I have a large back and ribcage which made me have to adjust the sides but I should have kept the original seam allowance by my waistline. I’ll try to fix that for my next version or make a full back adjustment (I think that is a thing?).Grainline Alder ShirtI am really pleased with my pattern matching on the pockets. Alder ShirtdressAlder ShirtdressI love it when the hem matches up after sewing on the buttons.Alder ShirtdressI didn’t have enough fabric to pattern match the yoke though, but I think it’s alright anyway.Alder ShirtdressI accidentally sewed on the collar upside-down. So the under collar is flowery and the upper collar is mostly white. I think this is for the best though since it matches the white button placket. Alder ShirtdressI really like the yellow buttons I found that matches the yellow flowers perfectly. They have square holes that I thought was unusual. I was one short though so I used a green one too. This is also a design choice I have made on a few button-downs I’ve sewed. Alder ShirtdressI’m really glad that I found this fabric in a second hand store and barely had any scraps left over. Zero Waste is always awesome! Alder ShirtdressHappy Midsummer!


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2015: A Year in Unblogged Review

I hope you all hade a lovely holiday season and a good first week of 2016!

I’m not much for reflecting back upon the past year and categorizing memories into time periods but I thought I’d make an exception today. The thing is that after the summer, my work got really intense and I did not have the energy to blog or even sew that much. It was a shame because I had sewn and photographed quite a few pieces during the spring and summer that never made it onto the blog. So I’m using this new year to finally blog a bit about these pieces and reflecting a bit about them so I have a fresh start for blogging in 2016.
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Skirt Pattern: Clémence Skirt from Love at First Stitch
Fabric: Ecological African cotton
Top Pattern: Nettie by Closet Case Patterns
Fabric: Super soft black jersey

In March, me and P went to Stockholm to see Paul Simon in Concert (I’m a huge fan). I planned outfits for the whole weekend for months in advance. Unfortunately I didn’t get so many great photos but at least I got this picture for my concert outfit. I bought the african fabric the summer before on a street market and thought it was perfect for the concert. I added bias bound patch pockets to the Clémence skirt inspired by this picture on Pinterest. This Nettie is my favorite so far and since it’s black it goes with a lot of things. I also made a black hoodie and a fan T-shirt with Paul’s face on it for the trip.IMG_9784Pattern: Simplicity 7498
Fabric: Floral printed poly spandex from Spandex World

I wanted to make lots of bathing suits for the summer so I placed a large order from Spandex World. This fabric feels retro to me so I made a tankini two-piece from this vintage pattern. The size of the pattern I got was about 6 sizes too big for me so I practically redrew the whole pattern. This suit unfortunately never made it out of the house this summer.

Pattern: Grainline Maritime Shorts
Fabric: Navy/White Cotton Twill from Ohlssons Tyger

These shorts were a recreation of a pair of shorts I really wanted but never got in the 90’s. I like them a lot but I kind of messed up the waistband by the fly. I’ll definitely make this pattern again and when I do I will add belt loops since pants/shorts tend to stretch out a bit after some wear.IMG_0066Pattern: Soma bikini for Papercut Patterns
Fabric: Black/White striped nylon spandex from Spandex World

I made another version of the Soma bikini before, shown here. This version was definitely inspired by Lladybirds version although I arranged my stripes a bit different. I made the high waisted bikini bottoms which I hacked a bit by adding diagonal side panels to continue the shape of the triangle in the top. Unfortunately this messed up the lining a bit so they don’t look that great when worn. IMG_0038This is the best picture I got of me wearing the Maritime Shorts and Soma Bikini.IMG_5229IMG_5230
Pattern: Watson Bikini bra by Cloth Habit (with sewn in padding) and Soma high waisted bikini bottoms (ruched)
Fabric: Unicorns and Rainbows from Spandex World (sorry, can’t find a link)

I fell in love with this fabric as soon as I saw it which is weird because it is usually not my style at all (or is it?). I made it into a Watson bikini bra and sandwiched in padding between the cup pieces (using the technique used in the Soma bikini top).

IMG_0839IMG_0871Top Pattern: Beatrix by Made by Rae,
Fabric: White rayon with black printed birds from Ohlssons Tyger (on sale)
Jeans Patterm: Ginger Jeans (view B) by Closet Case Patterns
Fabric: Organic black denim with 5% Lycra from Organic Textile Company

I loved the Beatrix pattern when it came out, and made it within a week of buying the pattern. I love this shirt, it’s casual but still dressy and really comfortable to wear. I also loved the Ginger Jeans pattern when it came out around the time I was all about making pants. I finally got to making them after finding this great black denim fabric from Organic Textile Company (sidenote: their site is so funny). This fabric is woven with white threads and in certain light looks more like a dark blue denim but I love it anyways. Unfortunately I kind of lost my cool when sewing these and kept taking them in along the inseam and side seams that they ended up being a bit too tight and there’s a bit of twisted leg syndrome. Luckily I think I have enough left over to make another pair.
Some close ups:
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Pattern: Washi Dress by Made by Rae with Peter Pan Collar (included in the expansion pack)
Fabric: Flight Voile by Birch Organic Fabrics

I fell in love with this fabric when I saw this pin a couple of years ago, later that year I was placing a big order from Fabric.com and came across it again so I had to order it. I think I ordered 3 yards but ended up getting a few extra yards since it was at the end of the bolt (score!). It ended up in my stash a while after that since I wanted to make something special with it. The Washi Dress pattern had been on the back burner a while too and this summer they came together at last. I have my next washi planned out (with the bow) from this summer so hopefully I’ll get to making it for summer 2016.Processed with MoldivPattern: Watson Bikini bra and Nettie hack (Wattie or Netson?)
Fabric: Milliskin Navy Blue and Milliskin White from Spandex World

This was my favourite make from the past summer, from the planning, designing, sewing to finally wearing. I wanted to make a retro styled one-piece in classic navy and white. After searching for the perfect pattern I came up with the idea to combine the Watson and the Nettie. Since I hade made both a few times before I had the fit down on both so that was no issue. First I made the Watson cups with sewn in lining (again, per the instructions of the Soma bikini top). I cut the back band on the fold and then attached the front and back band (plus lining) to the cups. I redrafted the nettie to remove the snap crotch and then measured to get the right length. I basically made really high waisted bottoms. I then combined the top to the bottoms with the white waist stripe. The lining from the bottoms attach to the band of the bra as you can see below. The thing that really stepped up the game for this suit was that I added the bindings of the bra with this super gadget I got from my mom. It’s a binding attachment for my Cover Pro, you basically just feed fabric into the right side and it folds and sews a perfect binding. It’s amazing and I am so blessed to have such a nice mother! IMG_9883
Here are some close-ups of the suit, I forgot to take pictures of it when dry so here it is wet after one of few swimming occasions this summer. IMG_5217IMG_5214IMG_5215IMG_4686IMG_4687IMG_4759Pattern: Bettine by Tilly and the Buttons
Fabric: Blue mystery fabric

I’ll start out by admitting that this dress only got worn once and I will concider it a fail. This is mostly due to the fact that the shape isn’t flattering to my body type and the sleeve tabs and cuffs turned out wonky for some reason. I made another go with the pattern as a shirt in a jersey fabric (below), but I haven’t worn that a lot either. I might give this pattern another go or two before I come to terms with the fact that it’s not meant to be.IMG_5245
I also finished a quilt this year. I never got around to taking pictures of it finished but this is what the blocks look like.IMG_5509I have made more things that I never got around to taking any pictures of and that are in constant rotation so now I don’t even remember that they are new. I’m not making any promises for this upcoming year except that I promise to continue to grow in my sewing and to love the creative process.
What have been your favorite makes of 2015? What are you hoping to learn and make in 2016?


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Coco Puffs

Forgive me for my long absence. I have been much more interested in the creating and sewing parts than that of sharing my makes. I am in the midst of sewing my summer wardrobe (I have already made three bathing suits) and thought I better update the blog with what I have made during winter/spring before I show you those things.

I’m starting out with this Coco I made way back in early fall. I wore it for my nephews birthday party in October and after losing some weight since then it doesn’t fit that great anymore. So it’s kind of old news by now but I still like it a lot so maybe I will get around to taking it in some day.

The pattern is Coco from Tilly and the Buttons; the dress variation with a cowl neckline. This is a really fast and satisfying pattern to make. I have made it up three times now I think and the last time it took 1-2 hours from start to finish. I love how comfy and retro it is too.

I didn’t really know about Ponte de Roma fabric before I bought this pattern and went to Stoff & Stil to find some. After a while I found a bolt of this blue loveliness and it said “Ponte de Roma” on the tag. When I got home and looked at the receipt it was called something else (can’t remember what now) and you can’t find it on their website if you search for Ponte. Strange.

I also got a grey version of the same kind of fabric that I had planned to make a long-sleeved Coco top out of but it randomly resulted in this instead.

In this picture you can see my mistake of putting in the cowl neck wrong, I couldn’t really tell the back from the front I guess and so I ended up with a seam in the front. Luckily, the fabric hides it pretty well.

I love these boots and if anyone is wondering they are from Green Laces.